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In case you cord it like this and it doesn't work, then there might be something incorrect with the 3-twine cable, disconnect everything from the 3-wire and check all the wires for continuity. Make certain all of the twine-nut connections are tight - that is wherein i've the maximum problem in my house.
Edit: so after analyzing more up on 3 way switches i might imagine i understand how they in the beginning stressed out it though, i simply haven't seen any diagrams achieved this manner. It looks as if they surpassed the two traveler strains via the first mild and then to the second one transfer then the strength might be coming from the second transfer to the opposite lights. Not positive if this is correct but maybe someone can shed some mild on it as i have never visible it performed like this.
Now consider you need to put a second lamp, in a 2d place, that switches on and off with the primary lamp. What are you going to do? Visit the primary lamp's location, and tie into ground, neutral, and the switched "warm" to the primary lamp. This is exactly what junction field 2 is doing. It's far meant for a second lamp.
Consider junction container 2 did now not exist. Go again into in paint, choose the white brush and put off the whole thing relating to junction container 2 along with the three wires. That seems like a common -switch configuration using two three-way switches and the lamp inside the middle. You ought to have observed that on any of your net searches. Black and pink are the messengers, and the white from junction box 1 is the now not neutral, but switched "warm" (which should be marked as such with a band of black electrical tape near each end, but nevermind that) coming back from the farther transfer to the lamp. The white from the primary transfer to the lamp is the actual neutral.