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Shop Utilitech 80-Ft 13-Amp 1-Outlet 14-Gauge Neon Pink Outdoor - You need to insulate the distance… the best issue linked the pinnacle p.C. And backside % is the range five, linked with the twine… i'd advocate to insulate and get a few skinny foam (i use warmness resistance one) in between… there are different configuration that don’t require these… however the terrible twine may be on the bottom right instead of backside left… your choice….
So based totally in this diagram having 10-14 gauge wire for the battery connection is alright for my build right…? Seeing that 14 gauge twine can allow up to 24a modern-day at the same time as 10 gauge wire can move up to 52a… i suppose i'd use 12 gauge wire among the cells and 10 gauge for the advantageous and terrible stop….
I am approximately to solder a bunch of things together and it came about to me; i have four unique twine gauges i am the usage of in my electric setup and i have never thoroughly notion this through. The boards i have reviewed in the rc global endorse that this would be.
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Whats up. I’m following your diagram to build the same battery for the reason that configuration is the excellent for soldering solid copper. ( I realize soldering isn’t the great way), sorry if i’m being stupid however do you want to insulate among the two rows of 15 whilst pushing together or can the whole thing be driven collectively then shrink wrapped. Cheers men!!. Now the question is, what gauge copper wire i must use with a view to supply max 60a to the vesc (30a for each vesc = 30a for every motor) with out inflicting too much heat at the twine or worse case break the cord connection…? I read some put up saying 14 awg is sufficient but i’m now not honestly positive… a lot people use best 2-3 layer nickel strip that may deliver much less contemporary compare to copper twine, but don't have any problem in any respect….